Have Yourself a Merry Little…
It’s time to think small. Little plates of food – a bit of this, a taste of that, a sliver of the other – is just how we want to dine, and how many hostesses want to entertain
By Bev Bennett
CTW Features

Image courtesy “Tables of Content,” Junior League of Birmingham
Entertaining with small plates was so appealing to Kathryn Tortorici that she integrated the trendy dining style into her décor.
Take a look in Tortorici’s kitchen and you’ll find color-coordinated dishes, spacious countertops and ample room for guests who are drawn in by the enticing aromas and cheerful bustling.
“We designed our kitchen with entertaining this way in mind,” says Tortorici, whose tableware collection features plates that look alike except for a slight variation in color. Each hue is used for a different dish.
What’s become a marvelous way to mix socializing and dining probably got its inspiration from Spain, where diners nibble on tapas to assuage their hunger until it’s time for the fashionably late dinner hour.
But even though you’re probably feeding your guests at a reasonable hour, say 7 p.m. or 8 p.m., serving a series of tastes rather than whole courses still makes sense.
Walnut Stilton Torta
Adapted from the Junior League of Birmingham’s cookbook
2 1/2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
1/4 cup packed light brown sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, at room temperature
1/2 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/4 cup white Port
1 1/2 cups (6 ounces) crumbled Stilton cheese
1 cup seedless raspberry jam, at room temperature
1 bunch seedless red grapes for garnish
1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions, green tops only, for garnish
Toasted French bread slices
Melt 2-1/2 tablespoons butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Stir in the walnuts, brown sugar and salt and cook for 5 minutes or until the brown sugar dissolves and the mixture is bubbly, stirring frequently. Spread the walnut mixture in an even layer on a sheet of baking parchment. Let stand until cool and break into pieces.
Combine the cream cheese and the 1/2 cup butter in a mixing bowl and beat at medium speed until blended. Add the Port and beat until smooth. Line a small ring mold or small round bowl with plastic wrap.
Spread 1 cup of the cream cheese mixture in the prepared mold and sprinkle with the 3/4 cup of the Stilton cheese. Spread with 1/2 cup of the jam and sprinkle with 1/3 of the candied walnuts. Layer with 1 cup of the remaining cream cheese mixture, the remaining Stilton cheese, the remaining jam and 1/2 of the remaining candied walnuts. Spread with the remaining cream cheese mixture.
Chill, tightly covered with plastic wrap, for 8 hours or until set. Invert the torta onto a serving platter and sprinkle with the remaining candied walnuts. Garnish with the grapes and scallions and serve with toasted bread slices. Makes 10 servings.
As a cook, you can have fun exploring new ingredients as you create small plates. If you can’t decide on one dish, serve several that strike your fancy. As a host you can seduce your guests with the visual and gustatory excitement of a variety of foods, according to Cindy Pawlcyn.
“I find that guests are more adventurous. They don’t have huge investment in a meal,” says Pawlcyn, a restaurant co-owner, chef and cookbook author in St. Helena, Calif.
Not only that, but unlike a cocktail and appetizer party that leaves your guests slightly hungry, everyone will feel comfortably fed on a menu of small plates, says Pawlcyn.
As a bonus, small-plate parties encourage your guests to mix, says Tortorici, a cook and hostess in Birmingham, Ala.
“No one sits down to talk, despite having tables set off the back patio. People carry on one conversation with one plate of food, then they change their conversation [partners] with the second plate,” she says.
If you’d like to base your party around a series of small plates, start with some guiding principles.
Make sure your guests are aware of the concept. If they’re holding back, expecting to sit down to a meal, they’ll be disappointed.
“At first my guests didn’t understand. I actually saw them turn away pistachio-crusted fried oysters on a toasted baguette with remoulade sauce,” says Tortorici, editor of the Junior League of Birmingham’s cookbook.
“I wanted to scream, This is part of your dinner! You really don’t want to pass this up! After they understood how dinner was going to be served, it became quite exciting as everyone waited for the next tasty treat,” says the Birmingham hostess.
Don’t take on too much. A menu with six plates, the equivalent of what you might serve at a holiday meal, is reasonable.
Do as much as possible in advance. Set the table, arrange the flowers and have your ingredients chopped and ready to cook a day ahead, so you’re not stressed.
Even Pawlcyn, a professional chef, does some dishes several days in advance so she’s not rushed.
And as a rule Pawlcyn says: “Never pick more than one thing that’s very complicated.” She recommends making dishes in easy steps.
Bruce Mattel, a veteran caterer, recommends even more streamlining.
“Things should be 80- to 90-percent done [before your party]. Then just reheat and garnish,” says Mattel, a professor at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. The Institute, the training ground for many top chefs, introduced its own cookbook describing the ins and outs of appetizer-based entertaining, “Hors d’Oeuvre at Home” (John Wiley & Sons, 2007).
The kinds of foods you choose to serve at a party will depend on your taste and skills. You’ll find as many theories on organizing and planning as you will recipes.
Experts agree, however, that keeping seasonal preferences in mind is a key to creating an inviting array of small dishes.
“For fall, I look for heavier, warmer and spicier food,” says Pawlcyn, author of “Big Small Plates” (Ten Speed Press, 2006).

Easy to assemble, easy to serve: Small-plate dishes allow you to seduce your guests with the visual and gustatory excitement of a variety of foods. Image courtesy “Tables of Content,” Junior League of Birmingham
Be sure to select dishes that offer a variety of textures, shapes, temperatures and even serving methods.
Texture can be anything from a crunchy cracker accompaniment to a dip or a lettuce wrap for tabbouleh. Shape can be as easy as logs you slice into serving size portions. Sushi and California rolls use this idea. And if having a stack of plates to wash seems overwhelming, go heavy on finger foods, as Pawlcyn does.
Tortorici looks for a range of intensities. “If one dish is real loud, like fried green tomatoes with Caribbean salsa, do you want another real loud dish or something softer?” she says.
If you plan to mix flavors, proceed with caution. “Keep things in a flavor theme. I’ve had a burger fest with baby burgers that fit together well. I wouldn’t mix an Asian and Latin dish because the flavors wouldn’t go well together,” says Pawlcyn.
Even though the temperatures are reaching frigid ranges, your guests will enjoy a variety of hot and cold foods.
“As people trickle in to the party, put out the cold foods you made in advance, then get the hot ones going,” says Mattel.
Following are five small-plate recipes that incorporate the advice of experts.
What to Pour
Choosing the appropriate wines can be challenging when you’re providing a wide range of spices, textures and temperatures.
“The best match is having fun,” says Sarah Munson, co-owner of The Local Vine, a new Seattle wine bar that features small plates of food and wines by the glass. “When you’re having fun and enjoying the food you’ll enjoy yourself.”
But if you’re still stumped, serve Champagne or a domestic sparkling wine. “It’s the most foolproof thing to serve. Everyone loves it and there’s nothing I wouldn’t serve with it,” says Munson.
Munson suggests pouring a dry (the label often reads brut) sparkling wine or Champagne. A hint of sweetness could conflict with your savory dishes.
When shopping for still (non-sparkling) wines, match the food to the body of the wine. Don’t worry about whether white or red is appropriate, but whether the wine stands up to the food.
For example you wouldn’t serve a zinfandel, which can be overpowering, with a salad. But you might serve zinfandel with a rich and spicy tapas dish, says Munson.
Think Small: Five Ideas for Small-Plate Entertaining
1. Fruity Cheese Spread
1 (8-ounce) package plus 1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese, at room temperature
1/3 cup half-and-half or heavy cream
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon cherry brandy
1 cup coarsely chopped dried cherries
1/3 cup shelled chopped lightly salted pistachio nuts
Apple slices or crackers or both
Beat cream cheese, half-and-half, sugar and cherry brandy until light and fluffy in bowl of electric mixer. Fold in cherries. Spoon mixture onto serving plate. Sprinkle or press on pistachio nuts. Surround with apple slices or crackers. To serve, spread cheese mixture on apple slices. Makes 8 servings.
2. Mediterranean Marinated Olives
1 pound pitted kalamata olives (see note)
2 tablespoons crushed dried Greek oregano
1 garlic clove, smashed
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1/2 teaspoon whole peppercorns, crushed
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Olive oil
Herb sprigs for garnish
Place olives in a sieve and briefly hold under cold water to rinse. Pat dry. Place in a bowl. Stir in oregano, garlic, rosemary, thyme, peppercorns and lemon juice. Stir in enough olive oil to coat the olives and herbs, about 1/4 cup. Set aside at room temperature up to 2 hours. If desired prepare one day in advance, refrigerate and bring to room temperature 1 hour before serving.
To serve, remove olives from marinade and spoon into serving bowl. Garnish with fresh herb sprigs. Makes 10 servings.
Note: Pitted kalamata olives are available in many supermarkets or in specialty stores. If desired, mix half kalamata and half green pitted olives.
3. Sushi
Adapted from “Hors d’ Oeurve At Home” (John Wiley & Sons, 2007)
1/2 cup short-grain rice
2 tablespoons rice vinegar or more as needed
2 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 sheets nori (see note)
1/2 cup thinly sliced avocado
1/2 cup thinly sliced cucumber
1/2 cup crabmeat, picked clean of shells
Pickled ginger
Wasabi paste
Soy sauce
Place the rice in a fine-mesh sieve. Hold under cold running water for 1 minute or until water runs clear. Place rice in a small pot. Add 3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon water. Bring to a boil. Stir. Cover pot, reduce heat to low and cook rice for 17 to 20 minutes or until the water is absorbed and the rice is tender. Remove from heat.
Meanwhile, warm 2 tablespoons vinegar with sugar and salt in a saucepan. Do not boil. Pour the vinegar mixture into rice. Stir well to scrape up any sticky rice. Set aside until rice is cool.
Place a bamboo sushi-rolling mat on a cutting board. Place a sheet of nori on top. Using damp hands, evenly spread one-third of rice over the nori sheet leaving bare a 1/2-inch strip on one of the long sides of the nori sheet. Rice will barely cover the sheet.
Place one-third of the avocado, cucumber and crabmeat on the rice across the long edge of the nori. Roll up carefully, brushing exposed strip of nori with rice vinegar. Press to seal. Repeat with remaining nori, rice, avocado, cucumber and crabmeat. Cut each roll crosswise into 8 even slices. Serve with pickled ginger and wasabi paste mixed with soy sauce. Makes 8 to 12 servings.
Note: Nori sheets are available in the Asian sections of some supermarkets, natural food stores and in Japanese food stores.
4. Chicken, Avocado and Pecan Salad
2 chicken breast halves
Chicken broth, optional
1/2 cup pecan halves
1 head Romaine lettuce leaves
1 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted and sliced into 12 slices
1/2 cup dried sweetened cranberries
Curry Vinaigrette (follows)
Place chicken in a medium pot with broth or water to cover. Bring to a simmer. Cover pot and simmer chicken for 40 minutes or until cooked. Remove from broth. Cool chicken until it can be handled. Remove skin and bones. Cut chicken into bite-size pieces. If desired do this up to two days in advance. Store chicken in covered container in refrigerator.
Place pecan halves in small skillet. Roast over medium heat for 2 minutes or until pecans are lightly browned and aromatic. Shake frequently. Set aside. This can be done up to a day in advance.
Line 6 small plates with lettuce leaves. Arrange 2 avocado slices over lettuce on each plate. Sprinkle with pecans and cranberries. Top with chicken. Prepare vinaigrette dressing and pour over salad just before serving, or pass on the side if you prefer. Makes 6 servings.
Curry Vinaigrette
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon curry powder
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/3 cup tablespoons canola oil
Combine vinegar, curry powder, sugar, salt and pepper in a cup. Stir to dissolve sugar. Stir in oil. This can be made several hours in advance. Stir well just before serving.
5. Plantain Chips with Creamy Cilantro Garlic Dip
(Adapted from “Big Small Plates”)
3 very green unripe plantains
Ice water
Salt
Peanut or vegetable oil for deep frying
1 or 2 limes cut in wedges
Prepare the dip; cover and chill until serving.
Cut tips off plantains and remove the peel. You may need to make a few lengthwise slits along the ridges of the peel to loosen it first. Have a container of ice water ready for soaking the sliced plantains. Add a few shakes of salt to the water. Slice the plantains lengthwise about 1/8- to 1/16-inch thick. Try for uniform thickness so all the strips cook for the same length of time.
Soak the strips in ice water for 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the plantains.
To fry, pour the oil into a heavy-bottomed frying pan to a depth of 1 1/2inches. Heat to 365 F. Carefully lower a few slices of plantain at a time into the oil, taking care not to overcrowd the pan. Fry for 1 minute or until crisp. Remove plantain chips to paper towels to drain. Season with salt while hot. Allow oil to return to 365 F before frying the next batch.
To serve, arrange plantain strips in a cloth or paper napkin-lined bowl. Serve the dip on the side. Makes 12 servings.
Creamy Cilantro Garlic Dip
1 cup mayonnaise
1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic
1/4 bunch cilantro, leaves and tender stems, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and minced
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
Combine all ingredients in a serving bowl.
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